Tile Layout Calculator

Enter your room and tile size to get tiles needed, a realistic waste factor, boxes to buy, and an estimated grout line length — plus a real to-scale drawing of your layout for straight, offset (brick) and diagonal patterns. Free, instant, no sign-up.

Straight, offset & diagonal Center-start or corner-start To-scale canvas preview Free · no account

Room & tile inputs

Defaults to 10%, and auto-switches to 15% for diagonal layouts (extra angled cuts) unless you change it yourself.

Results

Layout preview (to scale)

Drawn to scale from your actual numbers above — redraws live as you change the room, tile, pattern or starting point.

How to measure a room for tiling

Measure the room in at least two or three places in each direction — most rooms aren't perfectly square, and walls can bow by half an inch or more over a run. Use the largest rectangle the room forms as your base measurement, then add or subtract features separately: a closet alcove, a peninsula, or a bumped-out cabinet run should be measured and accounted for on its own rather than folded into a single "room size" guess. If the room has fixtures — a tub, a kitchen island, built-in cabinetry — measure the floor area those fixtures actually occupy and subtract it from the total square footage before you calculate tile count, or your material estimate will run high (which is fine for waste, but you'll want to know the real number). Round measurements up to the nearest half-inch rather than down; underestimating room size is the single most common reason installers run short on the last row.

Why waste factor matters more for diagonal cuts

In a straight or offset layout, most of the tiles you cut at the edges are simple rectangular cuts, and many off-cuts can be reused elsewhere in the same row or the next one. A diagonal (45°) layout is different: every tile that touches a wall needs an angled cut, and because the cut is a triangle rather than a rectangle, the leftover piece is far less likely to fit anywhere else in the job. More edge tiles need cutting relative to the field, more of those cuts are wasted material, and pattern-matching on cut tiles (keeping the diagonal grain lined up) burns a few more whole tiles on top of that. That's why this calculator defaults to a 15% waste factor for diagonal layouts instead of the standard 10% — it's a widely used industry rule of thumb, not an exact figure, so treat it as a floor rather than a guarantee on unusually cut-heavy rooms (lots of jogs, angled walls, or a small room where edge tiles are a bigger share of the total).

About the grout length estimate

The grout line length shown in your results is calculated directly from the same grid this tool draws in the canvas preview above — it sums the length of every interior grid line that falls inside your room's dimensions, in whichever pattern you've selected. For diagonal layouts this number is necessarily an approximation: the rotated grid is clipped to the room rectangle, and the exact seam length at the angled edges depends on precisely where each cut falls, which varies with your starting point. Use this figure for sizing grout bags — buying roughly the right amount of grout — not as an exact bill of materials.

FAQ

How much extra tile should I buy, and why?
Buy the "tiles to buy" number this calculator shows, which already includes your waste factor (10% for straight/offset layouts, 15% by default for diagonal). That extra covers cut waste at the edges, occasional breakage during installation, and — importantly — gives you a couple of spare tiles from the same dye lot to keep on hand for future repairs.
Center-start or corner-start — which should I pick?
Center-start lays the grid out from the middle of the room, so the partial (cut) tiles at opposite edges come out roughly the same size — a symmetric, balanced look that's usually the better choice for visible floors, entryways, and bathrooms. Corner-start begins with a full tile flush against one corner, which minimizes cutting and waste, but can leave a noticeably thin, unbalanced sliver of tile on the far side of the room. For small utility spaces where nobody's judging symmetry, corner-start saves material; for anything on display, center-start usually looks better.
What if a tile is broken during or after installation?
This is exactly why the waste factor includes spares beyond the bare coverage number — keep at least one full box of leftover tile, unopened, in storage after the job. Tile dye lots change between manufacturing runs, so a tile bought even a few months later to patch a single break often won't match the original floor's shade closely enough to be invisible.
Does this account for trim, thresholds, or transitions?
No — this tool estimates field tile, waste, boxes, and grout length for the main floor or wall area only. Trim pieces, bullnose edges, thresholds, and transition strips should be measured and ordered separately based on your room's actual perimeter and doorway conditions.
Is it free?
Yes — free, no account, and every calculation runs in your browser.

Informational planning tool for tile estimating — confirm final quantities and layout with your tile supplier or installer before purchase.